I ended up in Copenhagen… in 1999, moving here from the US for a relationship. I immediately fell in love with the city – its way of life, its atmosphere, and the opportunity it gave me to begin a new chapter and pursue what I had always dreamed of: a career in ceramics.
If you want to get into the city’s way of life… head to the harbour for a swim, if the weather permits. You’ll see locals swimming, sunbathing and enjoying the long evenings, and you might even find yourself wondering if anyone in Denmark actually works.
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People-watching is best… by the Lakes. You’ll see people cycling, going for a run, or simply sitting at a café overlooking the water. You might even spot the occasional celebrity. Grab a coffee at Kaffesalonen or an ice cream at Isoteket (isoteket.dk), then find a bench and watch the city go by.
For the best pastries… go to Andersen Bakery for almond croissants, or grab any sandwich from Hart Bageri. They’re all good.
To experience a sense of Danish fællesspisning (eating together)… book a communal dinner at Absalon in Vesterbro. Housed in a former church, it’s where locals and visitors gather around long tables to share a meal and conversation with strangers.
For something a little unexpected… book a table at Gro Spiseri. Hidden on a rooftop in Østerbro, it’s surrounded by one of Copenhagen’s first urban farms. Or Vækst in the old Latin Quarter. It has a greenhouse running through the centre of the dining room, and a menu that celebrates seasonal Nordic ingredients.
To get some quiet… take the train to Dyrehaven. Just 15 minutes north of Copenhagen, this vast deer park offers ancient woodlands and open meadows. Or explore Rudolph Tegner Museum and Statue Park. Located in Dronningmølle, north of the city, it’s surrounded by dramatic sculptures set within a protected heath landscape.
Somewhere understated to see is… Grundtvigs Kirke designed by Peder Vilhelm Jensen-Klint and his son Kaare Klint; it’s considered by many to be one of the most beautiful churches in the world. Or the neighbourhoods beyond the city centre, such as Nørrebro, where you’ll find Superkilen, a park that is a true visual playground for both children and adults. It is located in one of Copenhagen’s most diverse neighbourhoods, and was designed by a mix of architects, artists and landscape designers.
My favourite neighbourhood is… Nørrebro, where many of Copenhagen’s young creatives live. It’s the best place to discover independent designers, locally owned shops, and some of the city’s best cafés. By evening, the neighbourhood comes alive with natural wine bars, intimate restaurants and vibrant nightlife.
If you can only visit two museums… Spend a quiet afternoon at The David Collection and discover an extraordinary collection of Islamic art alongside European and Danish works. If you only have time for one museum outside the city, make it Louisiana. The combination of art, architecture, sculpture, and the view across the Øresund makes every visit inspiring.
To take something home… I always recommend stopping by FRAMA. It’s much more than a design store – it’s a beautifully curated space where furniture, objects, skincare and architecture all come together.
Be sure to avoid… Strøget, the city’s main shopping street, as you’ll mostly find the same international stores you can visit in almost any European city.
To really feel like a local… rent a bike. It’s the best way to experience the rhythm of Copenhagen. Some of the city’s most beautiful and best-kept secrets are easiest to discover on two wheels.
