For delicious autumn puddings you need a damson tree – here's how to grow one

The perfect balance of tartness and sweetness, damsons are a cook's delight when the seasons change. These black-purple beauties – which are a subspecies of plum – ripen between August and October, with September the peak of the crop. Using them to whip up comforting, old-fashioned puddings such as fools and crumbles makes the start of autumn far more exciting.

The damson tree is also an excellent garden plant. As a standalone specimen, it forms a bushy, portly figure and – on dwarfing rootstock – remains compact, or it can be coaxed into a fan shape against a wall. Of all the eating plums, it is by far the hardiest. It's easy to look after, and the pretty spring blossom provides food for bees, to boot.

Britain and Ireland have had a long love affair with damsons. Although some other countries (including Germany) like using them in the kitchen, their obsession has never rivalled ours. In times gone by, key damson-growing areas (such as the Lyth Valley in Cumbria) were white with the blossom of damson orchards in spring and, in autumn, towns (including Kendal) were crowded with carts of fruit to sell or take to jam factories. But after WWII, when sugar was rationed, damsons – which require a lot of sweetening – fell out of fashion, and most of their orchards became overgrown.

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Damson compote with ricotta and buttermilk pancakes

Thankfully, they are now having a much-deserved revival. As more of us cook things from scratch, the good old damson – which is slightly torturous eaten raw, but heaven when cooked – is back in demand. The purple-skinned fruits contain a yellow flesh that transforms, when stewed, into a delicious syrupy, bitter goo sparked with notes of amaretto, plum, and wine. It is a dream in crumble and cobbler, perfect for jam or fruit “cheese” and when folded through whipped cream to make a fool. It pairs well with anything heavy so it complements rich meats like duck. It's also wonderful in gin and, in the past, damson wine was considered a fine tipple.

Although they can be found at farmers' markets, damsons are still a rare sight in supermarkets, which makes the idea of growing them at home all the more enticing. But if you want to try their taste before committing to planting a tree, the countryside is full of damson treasure at this time of year.

Once used as windbreaks and hedging, you sometimes find old trees in a line, but, more commonly, they dot hedgerows. Slightly smaller than a regular plum and larger and more ovoid than sloes and bullaces, the fruits are distinct once you're familiar with them. When ripe, they feel gently soft, and their midnight-purple skin is clad with a bluish bloom.

There is debate as to the origins of the damson. The word supposedly stems from the fact that they grew around Damascus before being introduced by the Romans; archaeologists often find their stones at Roman camps. But some believe them to be a genetic mutation of the bullace (an inferior-tasting lookalike) that appeared closer to home. Wherever they sprung from, these magical indigo fruits have made our hedgerows their home, offering rich pickings for moreish autumn puds.

Ripe purple plums on the treeTamer ALKIS

Choose a sheltered site in full sun. Damsons like any retentive, well-drained soil, but sulk in waterlogged soils (such as heavy clay) and very dry sites.

Some annual TLC is required to keep your tree happy:

SPRING SHIELDING - Although damsons are hardy plants, their spring blossom is vulnerable to frost damage. If frost is forecast, cover with horticultural fleece overnight, but remove it during the day, so pollinators can access the flowers.

SPRING MULCHING - Feeding the trees isn't necessary if you mulch (for instance, with compost). Lay it around the tree, not against the trunk.

SUMMER WATERING - Damsons require regular watering until established, especially during hot, dry weather.

SUMMER THINNING - For better fruit and to prevent branch damage, take out one fruit per five to eight centimetres around midsummer.

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Damsons crop better in the ground, but, yes, on dwarfing VVA-1 rootstock they perform in pots. Feed regularly during the growing season.

'Shropshire Prune' boasts incredible flavour, and the delectable Westmorland damsons are thought to be a form of 'Shropshire Prune' (potentially 'Blue Violet'). 'Merryweather' is another good variety.

Fruit trees are often grafted onto rootstock to control their size. VVA-1 (2.5 metres) is the most dwarfing for damsons, followed by Pixy (3 to 4 metres) and St Julien A (4 to 5 metres); the latter two can be used for fan-trained trees, which can be bought ready-trained.

Trees can take a few years to fruit, depending on their age and rootstock. Speak to a reputable supplier (such as Keepers) when purchasing your plant about the estimated timescale.

This photo was taken in Chorleywood, Hertfordshire, England, UKPeter Fleming

Damsons are self-fertile, so no. However, your tree will produce a more abundant crop with other damson trees in the vicinity.

Specialist growers assert that established damsons dislike enthusiastic pruning, so it's only necessary to remove dead and diseased wood and to prune to limit size, if need be. The leader and lateral shoots of young trees, however, can be trimmed. Always prune in spring, never winter (to prevent disease).

If your garden is exposed to winds or visited by deer or rabbits, it's worth enclosing the tree with a wire mesh guard. Birds sometimes eat the fruit, but rarely sufficient for a tree to require netting; in fact, birds are useful in reducing aphids on damsons.